Pulmoddai & Arisimalai

Do you need a one day trip suggestion? Are you interested to discover the very North of Trinco District?

Then you should head to Pulmoddai. The small town is situated a 90 minutes bus ride from Trincomalee Town, has one of the best beaches in the East and boasts one of the most important mineral mine, worldwide.

Start your walk in the town. Ask the friendly locals for the Arisimalai beach and they will either tell you directly or organize someone who can tell you where to go. In the streets you will find already fish laid out on brown blankets and boys on way too large bicycles.

Boy and Fish, Pulmoddai, Mai 2013

Leave the main road and follow the Thakwa Street, all the way to the fishermen settlement.

Thakwa Street, Pulmoddai, Mai 2013

The Muslim fishermen settled here in rather temporary huts. Since there is hardly any tourism in this region, everyone wants to chat with you. And of some you are even asked to take pictures of.

Muslim Fishermen settlement, Pulmoddai, Mai 2013

Fisherman, Pulmoddai, Mai 2013

Be ready for a challenge now. You have to cross the sea to get to the small peninsula with its famous beach. You have two options: Either you ask a fisherman to cross you with his boat, or, you might get wet, YOU cross it by yourself. It will be one meter deep, maximum. The bridge you might spot about a hundred meter further South is destroyed, which makes everyday life for the families on the peninsula a bit adventurous. Follow up a small path, passing a mini kiosk till you reach a Buddha statue. Turn left before and hand over your passport. Yes, from now on you will be escorted by soldiers, their guns around their neck, ready for whatever intervention. The path through the small jungle is beautiful. And once you reached the point where the thick shrubberies clear up, a magnificent yellow-sanded beach appears. 

Beginning of the Jungle Path, Mai 2013

Arisimalai Beach, Mai 2013

Thousands of dragonflies swirl around. The water is amazingly clear and there are geologically colorfully formed rocks that you can climb to watch crabs, fish and the soldiers who either search the sand to find nice gravels or observe your actions. Honestly, once at the beach I never felt totally comfortable in the presence of soldiers. It had something surreal for me. The now peaceful beach has a bloody past which you can be guessed only by (maybe LTTE) signs on stones which have been painted over and by the present soldiers.

After a bath in the crystal clear water, walk back to the fisherman settlement and be astonished by the noisy scene of tractors and dredges that remove the black sand right next to the fishermen.  

Dredge at work, Pulmoddai, Mai 2013

Tractor at work, Pulmoddai, Mai 2013

The Mine, Pulmoddai, Mai 2013

The Lanka Mineral Mine Ltd., which is operating here in Pulmoddai since 1957, is working mainly at the same spot as the local fishermen. (More information about the mine). Walk through the fishermen settlement situated further West, say hello to the tractor drivers and then head back to Pulmoddai Town via the Thakwa Street. A colorful Mosque awaits you at the end of this walk.

Mosque, Pulmoddai, Mai 2013

Here comes the map:

View Pulmoddai in a larger map

Pottuvil to Arugam Bay, The Beach Walk

Do you want to complete your dream stay in Eastern Sri Lanka? Go for the amazing beach walk from Pottuvil to Arugam bay.

Put lots of sun cream, bring a bottle of water and your flip-flops (you will need them only from time to time).

Take a Tuk-Tuk to the Whiskey Point. There you will find a cool Beach-bar called SaBaBa, where you can meet young Sri Lankan Surf-boys amongst people from all over the world. Drink a Coke and then start walking to the rocks at the beach, from where you have a great view on the Surfpro’s, Wanna- and Gonnabe’s.

Part of the Sababa bar, Mai 2013

Female Pro at Whiskey Point, Mai 2013

Walk southwards to the Pottuvil lagoon. You cannot miss it. On your left the green blue sea with its white foam, on your right the dark blue water of the lagoon and the light blue of the sky. In one of the huts close by you can drink a warm tea, or (if you want to spend some extra money) “book” a one or two hour lagoon boat trip.

Walk on sand paths and sometimes climb through the rocky part of Pottuvil point. You cannot get lost, just stick to the beach. You will reach a wide, coarse-grained beach on which you will hardly find a living human soul. From far you can spot a beautiful villa behind some mostly unused fisher boats.

Villa at Pottuvil, Mai 2013

On the way to the next highlight, the Muhudu Maha Viharaya, you can marvel at the black gravel layers that gives the beach its special look or imitate the sounds of the maybe present goats to start an animal concert.

Black sand layers, Mai 2013

Goats at the beach side, Mai 2013

Some minutes later you will spot some sand dunes. Walk up to them and you will see the archaeological site named Muhudu Maha Viharaya. Some Buddhist extras spice the site up. 

Sand dunes, Pottuvil, Mai 2013

Return to the beach and head further south. On a narrow sand bank you enter the Bay of Arugam. To your right you have a great view of the bridge which connects Pottuvil and Arugam bay. Behind this Panama Road bridge lies the Arugam lagoon. After you have left the sand bank behind you, beach bungalows and hotels dominate the beach's appearance. Whatever the owners of the Tsunami hotel were thinking when they named their precious castle, it was not too much.

Hotel in Arugam Bay, Mai 2013

Watch the locals take a bath or drink a fresh juice at Mambo's. Maybe you are lucky enough to spot something unusual (see next pic). The usual would be surfing boys and girls passing by with their boards heading to the surf point approximately one hundred meter further south. That's the spot where this beach walk ends.

Tractor at the beach, Mai 2013

Here comes the map:

View Pottuvil to Arugam Bay, The Beach Walk in a larger map

Batticaloa Town

Are you in Batticaloa? Do you want to train your muscly legs?

Hereby I present a short walk to see some nice parts of the town. Just grab your flip-flops and start walking...

The Kalladi bridge offers a good starting point. Walk next to it, forth and back and enjoy this piece of history from different angles.

Kalladi bridge, Mai 2013

The bridge was built in 1924 during British colonial rule. The bridge was named Lady Manning Bridge in honour of the wife of William Manning, the British Governor of Ceylon. It was the oldest and longest iron bridge in Sri Lanka. On average 10,000 vehicles crossed the narrow, single lane bridge daily. Accidents on the bridge would lead to traffic problems in the area. Batticaloa's singing fish legend is associated with the bridge. In 1954 two American priests from St. Michael's College, Batticaloa, Rev. Fr. Lang and Rev. Fr. Moran, recorded fishes singing under the bridge. The recording was broadcast on Radio Ceylon in the 1960's. In 2006 plans were drawn to build a new bridge parallel to the old one. Construction of the new bridge began in March 2008. Problems with the contractor led to another contractor being appointed. The new bridge was formally opened on 22 March 2013.

Pass the road of the new bridge and enter the Lady Manning Drive, which starts at the not to oversee and not so nice-looking St. Sebastion Church. Walk along the shore. The atmosphere here is special: Most of the houses here are run down even though they are super-nicely situated. And every hundred meter you will find bunkers, or huts out of iron sheets, where policemen are stationed. Locals gather around a bunch of fish which they try to kill with cricket rackets. This road reminded me of some parts of Belize City (2012).

Further down the road you have a great view of the fort on the Puliyanthivu island of Batticaloa.

View on the Dutch fort, Mai 2013

You will pass a beautiful statue, positioned outside of the Church of Ceylon Diocese of Colombo. And some steps further there is a colorfully painted business building with shops ranging from driving schools to banana and paint sellers. 

Statue, Mai 2013

Colorful and often busy business complex, Mai 2013

Turn right after this business complex and find a local market after a hundred meters on your left. Stroll through the booths, shop pineapple, brooms or whatever crazy stuff they sell here.

Enthusiastic vendor, Mai 2013

Go back to the Lady Manning Drive and advance to the Central Road bridge. Most probably you can see huge jelly fish passing underneath the bridge, either floating inside with the high tide or outside with the low-tide. Fascinating, and consequently fishermen stay in there boats for fishing. Turn left at the clock tower, watch ladies holding umbrellas against the merciless sunshine, pass the Batticaloa gate and continue further down the road to the Dutch fort. 

Umbrella ladies, Mai 2013

Entrance to the Fort, Mai 2013

Inside the Fort, Mai 2013

The Batticaloa Fort was built by the Portuguese in 1628 and was the first to be captured by the Dutch on 18 May 1638. Later, the fort was used by British from 1745. The fort has a structure of four bastions and protected by the Batticaloa Lagoon from two sides and a canal of the other two sides. The fort is still in reasonable condition and many local administrative departments of Sri Lanka government function in new buildings, which is based in the old structure.

Once inside the fort, you will find the old buildings converted to department offices of the Batticaloa District and interestingly a small Kovil, which is a Hindu temple. Climb the stairs to the old walls of the fort and enjoy a short walk around them. Leave the fort premises through whatever gate and walk through the busy business Main Road back to the clock tower, where this walk is going to end. 

Main Road, Batticaloa, Mai 2013

Here comes the map:

  

View batticaloa walk in a larger map

Trincomalee Town, The Back Bay Walk

Do you want to discover the East of Trincomalee Town in less than three hours?

A good mood, your flip-flops and some cash is all you need.

If you are located at one of the Beaches north of Trinco, catch a local bus at the Trincomalee-Pulmoddai road and get off at the railway station.

Start at the inanimate railway station of Trincomalee, where some black, antiquely looking freight wagons are waiting for the next ride.

Railway Station, Mai 2013

Head to the eye-catching Christian Church, named “Shrine of our lady Guadalupe”. Turn left and enter the nicely situated Hindu cemetery on the right hand site. 

Hindu Cemetery, Mai 2013

At the beach you will meet curious fishermen-kids, colorful nets and tons of boats, which were donated by different donor organizations after the tsunami.

Nets, Mai 2013

Walk on any of the many small roads leading inland to Ehamparam road. Turn left and left again when you catch a glimpse of a tiny Hindu temple. Get lost here in this fishermen area. The walking paths are narrow and the doors to the inner of the houses are often open, so peek in and check the interior! Find the public washing place or other small Hindu temples.

Fishermen District, Mai 2013

Wall Painting, Mai 2013

Once back at the Ehamparam road, walk southwards, pass the green Mohideen Jummah Mosque and the clock tower (on its left side). 

Mosque, Mai 2013

The locals call this area Korea and here you cannot miss the stalls selling dried fish. Even whales meat is available! Some meters further down you find the fresh fish market, where fish change its owners even in the afternoon hours. 

Dry Fish Shop, Mai 2013

Fish on Scale, Mai 2013

Walk now to the pilgrimage center for a chat with its friendly owner and/or further to the Fort Fredrick. The fort is packed with military man, huge trees and lots of deer.

For the Buddhist temple site turn left after the entry arch. From this Buddhist point you have a great view over Trinco and its Back Bay and you can walk on the walls of the fort. 

Fort Entrance, Mai 2013

Buddhist site in Fort, Mai 2013

Fort Fredrick (Fort of Triquillimale) is a fort built by Portuguese colonials at Trincomalee, Eastern Province, Sri Lanka, completed in 1624 CE, built on Swami Rock-Konamamalai from the debris of the world famous ancient Hindu Koneswaram temple (Temple of a Thousand Pillars). The temple was destroyed by the Portuguese colonial Constantino de Sá de Noronha under Phillip III, occupier of the Jaffna kingdom and Malabar country on the island. The Fort of Triquillimale was dismantled and rebuilt by the Dutch in 1665, renamed Fort Fredrick. Source: Wikipedia.org

Return to the main road in the fort and walk all the way up to the end of this road, maybe with an ice cream stop at one of the military restaurants. Once arrived, hand over your shoes to the shoe guard (for 10 Rupees) and check out this religious and myth-saturated spot. And enjoy also the view of the blue sea at the easternmost point of Swarmy rock.

Decorated Tree, Koneswaram Temple, Mai 2013

Statue in front of limestone,
Koneswaram Temple, Mai 2013

Koneswaram temple of Trincomalee (Tamil: திருக் கோணேச்சரம் கோயில்) The Temple of the Thousand Pillars and Dakshina-Then Kailasam form the classical-medieval Hindu temple complex in Trincomalee, a Hindu religious pilgrimage centre in Eastern Province. The complex was destroyed in colonial religious attacks between 1622 and 1624 and a fort was built at the site from its debris. A 1632 built temple located away from the city houses some of its original idols. Worldwide interest was renewed following the discovery of its underwater and land ruins, sculptures and Chola bronzes by archaeologists and Arthur C. Clarke. Source: Wikipedia.org

And here comes the map:



View Trincomalee, Back Bay Walk in a larger map

Uppuveli, Walk the Hill

Fed up being on Sealevel? Climb the Uppuveli-Hill and explore the real Uppuveli-village!

Put your flip-flops or sneakers on, grab your cam and suncream...Ready you are!

This walk starts at the Northest bus stand of Uppuveli at the Nilaveli-Road.

Take the Kanniya-Road and walk inland for about 300 meters. Turn left and climb up the dirt road.

Dirt Road Uphill, Mai 2013

Middle Plateau, Mai 2013

After fifteen minutes you reach the top plateau. Enjoy the stunning 360 degrees-view, the slight breeze and the odor of peppermint rising up from the scarcely growing vegetation this rosy limestone. The only tree up here will provide you with shade if needed.

"The Tree", Mai 2013

Two tridents are posed here under this tree, supposedly for sacrifice purposes.

Climb down on the western side of the hill. You might awake some sleepy dogs and lizards, but since your the biggest and most courageous animal here you don't have to be afraid.

Get in the road on top of the hill chain and walk all straight inland. Most of the house owners here protect their property from unwanted eyes by corrugated metal. The dogs are numerous.

Uthayapuri Upper Road, Mai 2013

You will see the water tower from far, head to it. From there you have a great view over the Uppuveli lagoon and the hinterland.

Let yourself get lost in the streets of this part of the Uppuveli village. Talk with kiosk vendors. Observe the women crowding around a fish seller's bike, looking for the tastiest options. Find the funniest wall painting. Join a cricket game with some curious Uppuveli-boys.

Painting on a School Wall, Mai 2013

And don't miss out the small, but beautiful Hindu-temple at the school road, between lane 7 and 9. unimpressive from outside, but the colorful decorated anthill is fantastic.

Holy Anthill, Mai 2013

Take any road that leads you back to the Nilaveli road or go for the main and tarred road, called Puliyankulam Main Road.

Once back at the Nilaveli road, turn left and have breakfast, lunch or dinner at "Rinu Traders" for the friendliest staff, and best and cheapest food in village!

Best Food in village, Mai 2013

Here comes the map:

View Uppuveli, Walk the Hill in a larger map

Uppuveli, North

Are you staying in Uppuveli in the Trincomalee District? Are you tired of Diving with Cleaner Wrasse, of Reading "Life of Pie" in a Hammock or of counting the Fishermen tearing their net out of the Ocean?

That's the moment to start Walking! Grab comfy Flip-Flops, a Bottle of Water and your cam, and off you go...

Whether you stay in French Garden, Aqua Inn or Chaaya Blu, head North at least once...

The here presented walk starts at the Commonwealth War Cemetery. 

CWC, Uppuveli, Mai 2013

You can stroll up to the beautifully kept, yet immensely sad, Commonwealth War Cemetery. This is the last resting place for over 600 servicemen who died at Trinco during WWII, most of them during a Japanese raid on 9 April 1942 that sank over a dozen vessels. The simplicity of the lines of graves and their often moving epitaphs bring a tear to the eye. Donations are appreciated. Lonely Planet, 8. Mai 2013

Head north along the semi-busy Nilaveli-road. Leave the road to the left after having passed a small Hindu-temple. The sounds of crows, flamingos, pelicans and co accompany you, as well as the marks of cows in the dirt.

War-damaged bunker, Uppuveli, Mai 2013

Walk up to the war-destroyed building, jump over the pipeline and follow again the Nilaveliroad. Cross the pedestrian-bridge on which you’ll find lots of sea shell scattered around. You also might witness some fishermen hip-deep in the water trying their luck.

Fishermen at work, Uppuveli, Mai 2013

Walk ‘till you reach an army and police checkpoint, tell them where you are from and whatever Sri Lankans want to know.  From here you can catch a glimpse of the newly renovated, but way too swanky Hindu-temple. Walk up to it, or let it be and turn right. Follow that road for about fifteen minutes and turn right again when reached a Tamil and Singhalese Panel, saying maybe something like turn right here for the Salli M. Kovil-temple.

You walk through palm tree alleys and along village houses ‘till the superbly situated temple appears, built on pristine, yellow sand. Climb the little hill behind the temple to the south.

Salli Muthumariamunam Kovil, Mai 2013

Salli Muthumariamunam Kovil is a Hindu-temple at the Southeastern tip of the village Simpadu, a village you cannot even find in google-maps. But this local Hindu-temple is supposed to be of greater importance to Sri Lankan Hindu-Tamil culture. There are bigger festivals during the year where you can witness animal-sacrifices and men hanging themselves up on hooks. I will be going to one of this festivals at the end of Mai. Photos will follow

Continue walking north along the beach. Since the 2004-Tsunami the shore here is concrete-paved and therefore stands in stark contrast to the Uppuveli-beach further south. The formation of the palm trees is picturesque and the small colorful Hindu-temple that you will pass is fabulous.

Picturesque Palm Trees, Mai 2013

Hindu-Temple, Mai 2013

The fishermen who work here seem to be less outgoing than the ones in Uppuveli  or Trincomalee. At the end of the “promenade” continue a little bit straight further. Walk on beautifully white corals up to another war-damaged bunker, marvel at the black stones and their geological formation. Return to the path over the green meadow dotted with cactus and curious cows.

Walk inland to the heart of the village called Sampalthivu. Nosey Tamil-kids, mostly on stylish bicycles will ask you for school pens, chocolate, money or “picture”.

Two Bicycle-Boys, Mai 2013

Go all the way up on the tarred road till you reach Sampalthivu-Main street. Turn left. After some minutes you will pass a Guru Study Cent(e)re. Halt still to watch young and old villagers study together Hindu-books in this scanty  building.

Jump on a bus to Uppuveli at one of the several bus stands, or walk “home” and maybe get surprised by a yet rare vehicle and its driver.

Oldish Vehicle, Mai 2013

Here is the map for this walk:

View Uppuveli, North Walk in a larger map